Chemise for 'off shoulder' dresses (Civil War / Victorian Ball Gowns etc.)

This was the very first garment I ever made some time back, however at the time I found it unsuitable for the regency clothes I was making as it fits off the shoulder. I 'recycled' it into a more regency one but now, with the dawn of my 1860s ballgown, I needed a chemise just like this that wouldn't show.


Materials used:

Cotton lawn (voile) 150cm / 60'' wide (114cm / 45'' works too)
Bias Binding
threat


In general the pattern follows the Sewing Academies free Chemise patter and is really simple and easy to follow.

However, I made several changes that make it even easier and faster.

 Measure around your widest part, add a min of 50cm ... this is how much fabric you will need. Cut the fabric in half (from selvage to selvage not lenght wise) then fold each piece in half  (see picture).

Use the pattern from the sewing academy to draw your chemise body, making sure you measure the desired length UP from the selvage so you won't need to hem you chemise (cut 2, front and back).

Proceed to draw the sleeve pattern as directed, however, place the sleeve opening (line 4 to 5) along the selvage (see picture). Unless your fabric is very narrow  there should have been enough fabric left from above the chemise body to use for your sleeves.

Measure your desired neckline as outlined in the pattern or, if you already own the dress, measure it's neckline and add 3''/ 7cm. Add a seam allowance, cut the Bias binding to this length and sew into a loop.

After all the pattern drafting and cutting in this way you only have  to sew 7 seams!

A) Attach the sleeves to the chemise body (4 seams)

B)  Sew the 2 long side seams

C) Attach the bias binding to the neckline gathering the centre front and back (no gathers over the shoulders)  to fit the lenght of the loop.

FINISHED!